Moyamensing Prison

I read a post in Philly BLOG in which someone said they never knew or heard of the Moyamensing Prison!! WOW How could someone not know about something that was only torn down in 1968…. Isn’t it great to know that there is fresh blood in South Philly, that does not call things by bygone names. Like I still refer to Bond Bread at 10th and Reed–Bond Bread -like the company folded in the early 70’s and their bakery at 10th and Reed closed in the 60’s, to be replaced with an Acme then a Pep Boys and now a CVS and Dunkin Donuts ( thanks for reminding me Natalie) … Well at least that’s what was there in 2002- with the uppification of the neighborhood who knows? Maybe now it is a Sushi Bar and Yoga center.. Off the topic again sorry.Just to make an historical point - the swatch of land between Passyunk, Dickinson, Reed, Gerritt, 11th and 12th street was from 183 omething to 1968 the site of the Moyamensing Prison. The Prison it was and damn well will always be for me. They can raise a freaking pyramid there and I will call it the prison Pyramid.

For a good history and pictures check out http://fantes.com/passyunkdevcor/moyamensing.htm

It was build as part of a prison reform movement in Philadelphia in the early 19th century. It was large, made of stone, airy and had things like solitary cells etc.. That was reform 1830 style. It was called the Moyamensing after Passyunk’s sister creek- the Moyamensing ( where Moyamensing Ave is now.) Why did they not call it the Passyunk prison I do not know. Maybe Moyamensing sounds like a better name for a prison. The prison was part of a few built by the city with I believe Eastern State Penitentiary at 22nd and Fairmont as the only surviving example of this style prison, if you are into 19th century American prison architecture. The architect was Thomas Walter and this was his best work. The best part of it was the Debtor’s prison with its Egyptian Revival façade that was on Passyunk closer to Reed street.

This section turned out to only be used for women as mercifully Philadelphia changed its debtor laws by the time construction was finished. But like we do in SP we call it by its original name FOREVER- even if the debtors prison was only use for women we will always call it the debtors prison, never the Women’s prison .. like I will always call it Bond Bread or the Prison Acme.. Get the point- we don’t accept change.

You may be able to tell from this photo that the Prison was an architectural masterpiece. The Debtors' Prison wing façade was salvaged by the Smithsonian and is now in DC. Can you image a little bit of Passyunk avenue in Washington. I believe a similar façade still exist on Walnut street round fifth , with an office block behind, was this the same architect?. It was modeled after the Temple of Amenophis III, along the Nile. Isn’t that too much …a temple on Passyunk Avenue., meant to hold people who did not pay their bills on time.. a temple to Amenophis III .. Oh Pharaoh of the two lands- son of Amun, Priest of Thorth , brother of Orsirus .. accept this cheese steak as an offering for success in the numbers.

When the prison was build in the 1830’s , this was about the city limits to the south , with only a few houses nearby and farms further off- farms in South Philly… But the neighborhood grew and developed around the prison. By the Civil War the area had a few work shops and factories (including an armament factory that had a tremendous explosion in 1863 or 64 and showered body parts along Passyunk Ave) , by the 1890’s the prison was now surrounded by a solid and built up working class Catholic neighborhood.

It was at this time that the Moyamensing prison held its most infamous inmate. His was America’s first known serial killer , H.H. Holmes, who killed maybe 200 people, many in Chicago. He was arrested while in Philadelphia and his terrible trail of murder and mayhem was revealed within the walls of the prison. His crimes shocked and fascinated America and I guess he was our first Pop Culture criminal. He was hung in the prison in the 1890’s and if you are interested I suggest you read Erik Larson’s Devil in the While City, it even has a chapter entailed The Moyamensing prison.

The neighborhood by 1930 ( now predominantly Italian) was just too crowded , making it an unwise location for a prison. The prison ceased to hold violent criminals in the 30’s or 40’s as it would pose too big a threat to the neighborhood- and too easy an escape opportunity for the inmates. .But I would guess the neighborhood had even more violent criminals then were held in the prison.

By 1964 when it closed , I think it only housed people with parking offences. The least execution was in the 20’s?? The prison closed in 64 and in 1968 after years of discussion as to what to do, Philadelphia decided to just knock it down and destroy this massive structure and let it sit as an open eyesore for about 10 years. Today we would have turned it into luxury condos… the Cells at Passyunk…or Prison House.

I don’t know what the city’s motivation was – perhaps keeping a massive empty building invited all kinds of problems from squatters to Satanic masses.

I don’t know what it did to the property values of the homes adjoining it? My grandparents lived at 1107 Garrett and my dad always spoke fondly of the old Prison like he was living next to an amusement park. Great stories like the New Year’s Eve when some Gangster friend of my Grandparent’s came over and shot out the lights on the high wall. But I really have a problem believing this story as the Braccias (my family) are very squeamish around guns and such people what carry them- despite any bravado. My Uncle Joe for years spoke of his gun, but I never saw it, I wonder if he even realized it would need bullets. The Braccias did not need guns, they had sharp scissors (family of tailors) and even sharper tongues.

As a kid I was really impressed by the massive fortification and its wall. My Grandmother Mama would walk around the wall – that was a real exciting passigiata for her. Her main point of interest was a large stone shaped like a shoe. She would often stop and point it out to me, no not often, ALWAYS, apparently it was a ritual she enjoyed with my Grandfather Francesco. Forget the Medieval turrets and Egyptian Revival- lets look at the stone that looks like a shoe. There’s the old irony again….

My father would often point out the parts of the building that fascinated him and then tell me to be good because this is where bad people end up. Of course after telling me what a great wonderful building it was – the argument lost some of its logic. But I got the point.

I have a theory that many of the people who grow up directly behind the prison –on Gerritt street- did not turn to crime because the prison provided for them a sort of subconscious reminder of the wages of sin. Now I can’t prove that, but that’s what I think.

In 1968 after Mayor Tate let go the wrecking ball and knocked a hole in the great wall- they let it stay open for a day or 2 and allowed the neighbors to come in and take a loot.... I mean look. I have to tell you I was fascinated by my one time inside the prison. I can still remember the rows of cells, the infirmary, the inner court. Now my grandmother Mama was very friendly with a guard at the prison and he would let her in all the time. That’s what my uncles would tell me- as if this was some kind of badge of honor to be allowed to sneak into a decrepit prison. I am sure for 2 bucks and a cappiccola sandwich any body could have been brought into the inner sanctum and see where H H Homes was hung.

All that is left today are two things- the mind block that still makes some of us call the space the prison , and a wee bit of the wall which has been preserved along Reed street and 12th- coming up , I believe , but two and a half feet. The space is now well used commercially ( even has a Starbucks) and with the senior citizens center provides a good hub for the community, but you know with the prison shortage in American.. we could sure use the Moyamensing prison again….